Why smart Erfurters hike in Bad Blankenburg

Why go to Schwarzatal?

Schwarzatal in the Thuringian Forest,
on the other hand, is completely different This deep valley, which is a good 50 kilometers long, has cut deep into the mountains. The valley offers a beautiful river - the Schwarza - numerous viewpoints, an impressive castle, meadows and forests and small towns. The Oberweißbacher Bergbahn is known as an attraction for young and old. The Schwarzatal is easy to reach from Erfurt: a good 50 minutes by car, and it doesn't take any longer by train: the Erfurter Bahn runs every hour via Arnstadt and Paulinzella to Rottenbach. There we go directly to the Schwarzatalbahn, which takes us via Schwarzburg to Katzhütte in just a few minutes.

It starts at the chrysoprase weir

This weir with the strange name marks the entrance to the Schwarzatal. Renovated in 2020, the water of the Schwarza jumps wildly or gently over the two steps, depending on the water level and the season. In summer it is a popular place to refresh and splash around. In winter, with a bit of luck, you will be able to take a photo of the icy waterfalls.
By the way, the name “Chrysoprase Weir” comes from the time the weir was being built. At the beginning of the 19th century, a search was made for the semi-precious stone chrysoprase near today's weir, but without success. Nevertheless, this term was transferred to the weir and is still called that today.
And this is exactly where the hiking car park is – which is free, by the way – where our tour starts. If you arrive by train, it takes a good quarter of an hour to stroll from the train station through the partially shaded spa gardens to the parking lot.

Off to the “Eberstein” hunting lodge

We decided on a 12 kilometer long circular route, which initially leads a little uphill. Along the Wehrebach we go to the Wildgatter. Although nothing of this can be seen anymore, we now know that the game was kept here for the ducal hunt. The stream itself has an impressive riverbed with rocks and ferns. But the water itself only flows into the valley in thin trickles, at least in the rainless summer of 2022.

After a few hundred meters, the sight of the former ducal mini-hunting lodge “Eberstein” makes up for this. First we pass the remains of the old horse stable before the castle itself comes into view.

To the refuge at the “Dürren Schild”

Let's continue: The path continues to meander along the mountainside without any major inclines. To the left on the steep slope there are numerous slate rocks and ferns. To the right, down the valley, is the typical mixed forest of oaks, mountain ash, larch and pine. At “Potsdamer Platz”, a large intersection of several forest paths, we are not yet lured by the sign to the “Swiss House”. We first want to get to the “Dürren Schild”, a good kilometer further. There is a cozy refuge right there with a view of the valley. Rest a little, eat a little something. If only it weren't for that annoying wasp. Oh well.

The Schweizerhaus: caffeine and friendly hosts

After a short descent through spruce forest and raspberry vines, we land directly at the Schweizerhaus. I have known this restaurant since I was a child. The last 30 years have seen several changes of ownership and several years of vacancy. There has been a new owner family since this year. What can I say? Very friendly hosts, delicious cakes and a small menu to start with. Wonderful. We filled up with much-needed coffee, after seven kilometers the caffeine level had dropped far below normal ????.

Along the Schwarza

The next six kilometers are easy. On the right bank of the river we share the path with several cyclists and a few other hikers. The river babbles quietly, the birds sing. Only the street with the cars and loud motorcycles on the other side of the river disturbs the idyll. But you can't have everything. In some places we leave the path and climb down the embankment to the Schwarza. Put your feet in the water, take photos of ducks or collect stones, it's all easy.

Where the rock walls are closer together, the river has done a great job. There are sanded areas and the “swirl pots”. These are circular washouts that the river water has created over millions of years. Schwarza changes her face many times. Sometimes it flows broadly and without any noticeable current, sometimes it jumps around stone in small rapids. A little further on, with all the water grass, it almost looks like the edge of a swamp area. After a good hour we reach the hiking car park again. It's really full on Sunday afternoons. People from toddlers to grandpas have fun in the water at the weir. For us, the tour ends here: 13 kilometers and a good 18,000 steps are on the clock. That fits.

Schwarzatal impressions

And here are a few more pictures to click through...

Conclusion

We really enjoyed the tour. Varied and with a restaurant in half. Unfortunately, that is not typical for the Thuringian Forest. The hunting facility is worth seeing and you are pretty much alone for the first half of the way. The second half of the hike – along the river – is just fun; even with children. Who doesn't like playing in the water? So let’s head to Bad Blankenburg!

Addendum: 3 insider tips for the journey home

Anyone who drives back to Erfurt by car and races along the main road is missing something.
Better drive via Rottenbach and Stadtilm, we have a few great tips:

The BahnHofladen in Rottenbach

A farm shop in the train station, also open on weekends. Ice cream in a waffle or as an Eisbacher, a good selection of cakes and coffee are welcome in the afternoon. There is also fruit and regional beer, apple juice, jams and spices. Most of it made in Thuringia. Be sure to take a look!

The monastery ponds in Paulinzella

Shortly before Paulinzella, the sign beckons you to the “Paulinzella Monastery Ponds”. This isn't just a fishing park. The friendly team sells delicious fish sandwiches and smoked fish . Even on Sundays!

The church in Stadtilm

I admit that I only know the small town of Stadtilm from driving through it. But this time, while driving through the town, we noticed the church's double tower, which looks quite enormous. The church is somewhat hidden behind the second row of houses; So we had to stop and get out. It was worth it. The church is larger than one would expect in this small town and is architecturally impressive. Renovations are apparently underway, but they will probably take decades: But the short detour to the church is still worth it.